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The Bill Marston Collection (4)

From the late Miss Marston via S. & R. Ling

 

    Jerry Wright crossing to the Arete, which leads up to the            shoulder

 Jerry Wright begins the    awkward mantle-shelf     manoeuvre from the                shoulder.

     Jerry Wright leading

Bill Marston on The Needle,   The Napes, Great Gable               Circa 1931.

 

The classic route to the      shoulder is via the   ‘Wasdale Crack’  but on  this occasion Jerry chose    the less polished Arete.

  Unusually, photos 2 to 4  were taken from a vantage  point above & to the East   of the Needle.  Probably   from the climb ‘Salome’.

Jerry eases himself upright, while Bill protects him with a shoulder belay, (standard in that era), but no longer used         for belaying leaders.

      Bill  attacks the summit block, which is usually completed near    the edge, out of our       sight to her left.

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  It is normal practice for the  leader of this climb to belay himself on the top by   rigging a ‘lassoo’ around    the back of the block or, better, under the overhang    which is on the far side.

 

Jerry was probably secure      enough in this sitting   ‘stance’, though he does not appear to be tied on at all !

 Though many Alpine Guides still use the shoulder belay to bring up     clients from below as it allows    them to give a helpful upwards                             pull !